Day 10 Coningsby to London

The last day of the tour and we were treated to a Spitfire display, all of our own.

We were scheduled to see a Spit take off and perhaps return, but we got instead a fly by display and then as luck would have it, the two spitfire's were due to attend a funeral fly past so spent time giving us a private fly past before heading off. Rather special!!

Then with mixed feelings back on the bus and return to the familiar and welcoming surrounds of the RAF Club.

Day 9 Lincoln & East Kirkby

The day started with a walk about the historic centre of Lincoln and a look around the magnificent and ornate Lincoln Cathedral.

The group at East Kirkby Lincs Aviation

The Last

Then off to East Kirkby airfield for a slow wander around a comprehensive display of WW2 memorabilia.

Of course the immense highlight was the ride in the Lancaster bomber while it taxied around the airfield.

The Lincs Lancaster

Who's in the rear gunner??

The Vets showed remarkable versatility and flexibility to be able to scramble their way around the interior of the aircraft.

The Petwood Hotel and once home to the 'Dambusters

It surely bought back many memories for them.

The evening was a formal dinner at the Petwood dining mess, the home of the famous Dam Busters squadron.

Speeches and toasts and some very fine dining capped off an extraordinary day.        

Jonathan Pote writes:
We had a great dine-in at the Petwood - my son Chris 'liberated' a
lot of 9 Squadron's silver for the table.
(he only joined 9 on Tuesday)!

Day 8 Going to Lincoln

Sign to Wickenby..spot the veterans

Laying a wreath at Wickenby

Inside the museum hanger, to the restorer enthusiasts
delight!

Walter getting up close

Wendy Kuperus in the cockpit

An early start today-out the door and on the bus (sorry coach) by 8am. A very pleasant drive through the English countryside to Lincolnshire for a lunch at the White Hart Inn, a popular pub for the many RAF men and women in the area. The pub was built in the 1500s so plenty of character.

Built about the time of Elizabeth 1. The publican had a few stories about the war years, the number of times you could observe 2 bicycles parked up around a haystack (there was a WAF base just up the road), a local "land girl" married a German prisoner of war and they settled in the area after the war.

Did you know you can tell how old a hedge row is by how many varieties of plant are established in it.

Approximately 100 years of growth per species, so a hawthorn, elder and blackbeem hedge would be about 300years old!

After lunch we were off to Wickenby airfield  (did you know that town names ending in 'by' originate from the Viking era, according to Wally, who knows about all manner of things.

Small museum at Wickenby showed a slide show of the old airfield, which was a little emotional with discussion of crews that did not return. Some great memorabilia and also a hanger where they were building and repairing small planes. We laid a wreath at the Icarus memorial before leaving. Today we were joined by Phil, Jonathan's son, who also has a vast knowledge of things aeronautic.

Great to have him with us. We made our way to the beautiful town of Lincoln for the night, many well preserved medieval buildings set on the canal where in times past there were mills to mill corn and wheat.

Also an area of significance for Harry who used to come here for dances on his nights off and be involved in other agricultural activities - something about sowing oats or something he said.

Day 7 Hendon Museum

Eddie in front of a Messerscmitt similar to the ones he
would eyeball to shoot down as a rear gunner.

Q & A's by 8 year olds and the Veterans

The day's agenda was a trip to the airforce museum at Hendon. A substantial complex of large buildings containing all manner of aircraft including Lancasters, Liberators, Hallifaxes and a walk through Sunderland.

The chaps had a relaxed time wandering through the displays of engines where Walter could explain at length the various idiosyncrasies of each engine type and each recognized aircraft bought a memory or reflection.

Bomber Command UK Vets & Signed Lancaster Print

Perhaps a highlight for the Vets was an impromptu question and answer session they had with a group of 8 year old school children from Aldwickbury school from Hertfordshire.

The kids asked many curious questions which the men enjoyed answering. The kids and their teachers were very appreciative of the willingness of the men to give them their time and experiences.

A poignant moment came after lunch when we watched an audio-visual presentation of the start of the war and the lead up to, and action of the Battle of Britain. 

This was quite disturbing for the men and a school group was also present at the screening.

Jonathan and Eddie spoke to the kids at the end and explained it was their responsibility to see that it never happened again.

At 2 o'clock we met up with a group of BC veterans for a cup of tea and general chat about their experiences. 

They presented everyone with a tie and the men signed a Lancaster print. 

One of these chaps managed to sign up when he was just 16 and was a rear gunner when he was 17!

This chap, Harry Irons flew over 50 missions and on one occasion was flying with a German/Jew pilot who had to return and bomb his old home town. 

Overall, the day was very informative particularly for the rest of the tour group and rewarding for the Veterans who were able to share their experiences with both fellow vets who knew of what they went through, but also the important role of educating the future generations of the horrors of wars. An emotionally draining day.

Keith Park Memorial

Thoughts from Jonathan Pote Tour Leader:
Apparently we were supposed to be met by a museum guide, but by the time she turned up we had dispersed into the museum.  In the Bomber Hall I was by the Lancaster (R5868) and so was a class of eight year olds.   They were being asked questions by their teacher and filling in their work sheets. I offered a couple of comments, then thought I knew a better authority or two.   Quickly I rounded up Des, Doug, Eddie and Harry (Wally had vanished - he has become the most active  - and very knowledgable - person) as she rounded up all her class and we had a most wonderful Q & A session.   Murray was able to get the seated childen in the foregound, the veterans standing beyond and the Lancaster towering over them all.   The image of the tour for sure. Both kids and the lads were great with their questions and answers, but I had to call a halt eventually.   Janet took an email  address so we can send photos.
 
The museum is fantastic, we headed over to the 'Wings' cafe by the Battle of Britain hall for lunch and with a bit of prior work we got seats for the hourly film. Before that Eddie came face to face with an Me 110. I had briefed him beforehand and went with him. Many years ago he sat in his Stirling rear turret at night as one crept up on them. At point blank range (less than one hundred yards) they both opened fie.   Eddie was not hit, the Me 110 was shot down.   And two days ago Gill asked him on camera "were you scared?"    I think his answer was deleted.   He was visibly shaken by the sight, but kept his composure.
 
The film of the Battle of Britain was screened over the very aircaft that had fought it, Hurricae P2617 that fought in France and over Kent, Spitfire X4590 (?), an Me 109 shot down by 66 Squadron over Kent plus examples of most of the other types. Again we had thirty eight year olds from a different class and afterwards I told them who they were with. More Q & A, wonderful to be present at.
 
At 2 PM we went to the Boardroom and sat around a table with five from the UK BCA. Again, an honour to be present. I was also prevailed upon to sign a print of the Augsburg raid (seven out of twelve Lancasters lost, a VC won. I felt very awkward putting mine amongst some very famous names.  I noted all the UKBCA chaps answers so will append their stories when I can. One was a gunner from 9 Squadron, so I took his photograph.   He was delighted Chris would join IX(B), who celebrate their centenerary in two years time.  Doug Radcliffe gave me thirty ties from the dedication ceremony 'issue' for the NZBCA, as well as one to each of us, a very nice gesture.

Day 6 Runnymede Reflections

Entrance to the Runnymede memorial.

Another busy and fascinating day. Our first stop and most significant was Runnymede memorial. Where the names of more than 20,000 airmen and women are inscribed who lost their lives and no known graves exists for them.

The men laid a wreath in their honour at this significant and tranquil place. The site of the Runnymede memorial overlooks the Thames and down to the field where the Magna Carta was signed in 1215 , enshrining the basic freedoms we enjoy today. Further along the Thames valley is a memorial to JF Kennedy.

We then enjoyed a little more coach ride to Windsor Castle to take a look at a Hawker fighter replica, mounted in a very pleasant situation beside the Thames with moored houseboats alongside and elegant white swans gliding by.

Runnymede poem on the window. 

 Lunch at Saville Gardens. We had time for a quick walk through the Windsor town area and a view of the castle.

The Royal Standard was flying so the Queen was in residence.

We had the benefit of Jonathan's son David, who was an excellent and most knowledgeable guide for the area, as well as being knowledgeable about all things aeronautical, being a pilot for British Airways.

     

The 5 lay a wreath at the memorial.

He took us to a small but little known church built in 1020 with a more modern addition built in 1070. A church where William the Conqueror took mass!

The church font dated from 800AD.

The church garden was planted with Yew trees to provide wood for the bows for the English archers. The English archer could fire an arrow 500yards compared to the French crossbow of only 100yards.

The Runnymede Memorial.

An English archer if caught would often have his two fingers cut off and released, as he would be useless without them. Jonathan provided us with a comprehensive and wide ranging commentary on the bus trip proving beyond all doubt his vast general knowledge and range of experiences.

Back to base in time for Harry to complete his television interview. It is perhaps worth noting that while the veterans were all wide awake on the return trip, the support staff all seemed to need a nana nap to keep up.

Day 5 Seeing the Bomber Command Memorial

The day starts with the normal quandary - should we have cereal, fruit and toast, or perhaps the cooked breakfast option or maybe croissants and a pastry. Usually the low stress option is best and save making any decisions early in the morning, and sample a little of everything, washed down with fresh fruit juice and coffee.

Doug Williamson & Eddie Leaf donning medals for
their filming session.

We had two guests at breakfast, Peter Edwards from Canada who knew Doug and happened to be staying next door, and Bob Leadham, a flight engineer from Eddie's crew. A great reunion, which was improved somewhat when Des recognized Bob and discovered he was in fact his Flight Seargent, whom he had not seen for 67 years!!!

           

Discussing the planning and designing of the Bomber
Command Memorial with the architect Liam Connor
in the RAF Club Cowderay Room

NZ Close-up TV One film crew and the outside of the
Bomber Command Memorial

Getting ready to view the memorial and honour
fallen friends. Eddie Leaf leads the way.

Prior to lunch we were treated to three more eminent guests; Tony Iveson who was the main driving force behind getting the memorial constructed and spoke to us about the process involved in design and fundraising, then the architect who designed the memorial - Liam Connor spoke and he was followed by Wing COMMANDER Nick Olney who is the defence attaché for NZ in London.

Walter Halliwell lays a wreath, Gill Higgans
from Close-up TV looks on. 

Harry Cammish salutes at the Bomber Command Memorial.
Des Hall reflects in the background.

The Bomber Command Memorial-They got there!

Tony Iveson and Liam Conner with the 5 and friends.

Des Hall, Janet & Doug Williamson.
The memorial from a different angle.

A quiet moment for Eddie Leaf in front of the
Bomber Command Memorial.

After lunch it came time to cross the road to the memorial -a distance of 200m (sorry 200yards). However at that point the heavens opened big time so we had to, with the help of the club staff summon several taxi cabs to 'ferry' people over the road. The memorial is magnificent and each Veteran in turn, laid a wreath at the base and spent a few moments in contemplation and reflection.The TV cameraman was there and could have been deemed to be obtrusive but the men coped very well and were most tolerant and obliging. The memorial depicts a typical flight crew from a Lancaster bomber who have returned from a mission as their faces are strained and drained and exhausted, which, as Des explained is how everybody felt at the end of each mission.

A long and emotional day, and made a little longer for Eddie who did his hour long interview with Gill Ryan from the Close up team. Each of the five floors of the RAF Club is festooned with paintings, squadron emblems and memorabilia. The men spent some hours in the evening moving from painting to painting discussing the attributes of different aircraft and experiences they have had.

It is a joy and privilege to be with them and learn from them as they share their recollections and experiences.

Observations from Jonathan Pote Tour Leader:
Sleep is so wonderful!   Refreshed we all came down to breakfast, in 'The Ballroom', and private.   Much chatter and the usual morning brief.  The 'Kiwis do Fly' for liam O'conner had a long message of thanks inscribed by Des, and his fellow men all signed it.  

I passed around a lovely welcome card I found in my room, from 'The supporters of Bomber Command', a facebook group.  From there we drifted towards the Cowderay Room.  I bumped into Tony Iveson, an hour early. He was in fine form, but headed to the Library perhaps for some research.   He joined us a bit later.  

Soon Nicko (Wg Cdr Nick Olney, NZRAF Attache arrived; at last an accent I am familiar with!  Nick was off to Rome for a conference the next day but made every effort and got to us. Outside it was pouring after a perfect day the day before. 

A little later I was glad I spotted a distinguished gentleman entering the room, clasping a rolled print. Liam was younger than I had expected, a delight to meet. I introduced him to everyone, and he and Tony gave us an account of the rocky road towards the Memorial (which we had briefly seen from our coach as we arrived).  

In Hong Kong I saw a quotation from Mao Tse Tung "A tiny spark can be the start of a prairie fire".   So it was with this project, more or less a chance meeting at English Heritage when the later Robin Gibb spoke to Tony of his desire to see a memorial built, and Tony's fervent agreement that it must be done before the limited time left ran out.   'Going public', they had 80,000 letters within weeks, and the 'Daily Telegraph' was behind them.  The prairie was well alight.
 
Liam brought a delightful montage view of the memorial parhaps a meter across.  The 'lads' signed it for him, and it is off to the RAF Museum as a reminder of the group.
 
After lunch together, we had to brave the now monsoonal rain.   Murray commandeered a couple of cabs whilst Nick and I juggled five wreathes on a wheelchair in a gale to cross Piccadilly.   

The memorial is wonderful beyond description - I thought I knew what I would see, but no. Truly imposing, accurate in every detail, the tired faces looking up to the sky, spattered with rain as it often was then - or was it tears?   I have to admit that in my eyes then, it was tears.   Such a sacrifice, then shunned.
 
There were people there even in the heavy rain, but after a few shook hands, they moved back to give us almost free access.   The lads were filmed by the Close-up Team as they had their first look close up, and then some were interviewed.  After perhaps twenty minutes, there was a small formal wreathe laying.   The five marched up singly and laid their wreathes with great dignity and poise.  

Dougie was first, having the most operations. Many, many photographs were taken, Murray braving the elements whilst at times we were in shelter. Liam suggested compositions and placings - he had explained to us his intentions in the architecture before. Finally, we left after an hour perhaps, in weather that few today would brave. Nick's umbrella was totally destroyed as we walked back. Sir Arthur Harris once said "They have sown the wind: They shall reap the whirlwind". I think he had today in mind. 
 
Hypothermia was banished by more hot drinks in the Club; perhaps we were fortunate in having so few others at the Memorial in that weather; but anyway, truly unforgetable.  Eddie was interviewed in the apt surroundings of the library.  For the first time he told others of how it felt to view an Me 110 face to face, to kill or be killed.  "Were you afraid?" was perhaps the most rhetorical questions ever.   Yes, he was very afraid, but he won out, although he was never officially credited with his success.   His main fear now is going back to his RSA having 'shot a line'.

Day 4 From Hong Kong to Heathrow

The day starts with another extensive buffet-breakfast. Then back to rooms for a pack up and onto the bus at 11:30. The drive through Hong Kong is fascinating with masses of high rise buildings and construction sites around every-corner.

We went down one road which was obviously car dealer row, with everything from Lambourgini to the humble Honda. All cars were inside and on 2 or 3 levels of shop.

Hong Kong airport was somewhat daunting, but with a short walk, an escalator, a lift down, a lift back up, a travelator or two, a lift down three floors, a high speed train ride and a further walk we arrived at our plane. (Not before sampling the delights of the Cathay lounge - particularly nice smoothies).

Harry enjoying the birthday boy treatment

Once again on the plane the pilot came and talked to the chaps and mentioned them as special passengers on the intercom. Harry the birthday boy (His birthday has lasted for two days now) was given a cake by the aircrew which they cut up for us all to enjoy. - that was a surprise for all.

Heathrow took a bit to get through but we managed with all our party and all our baggage to emerge out to be met by Ian and Wendy and our tour lady and coach driver. Fairly quick drive in to the RAF club for some soup and sandwiches and off to bed.

About a 20 hour day again, but everyone still in pretty good nic.

Comments by Jonathan Pote Tour Leader:

For some reason the flight seemed far longer than the one before, but eventually we were heading in to Europe across the Baltic and the Skagerak.  We had chased the sunset most of the way, but now we were in the twilight.  On the western horizon was the horizontal rainbow - red and orange at the bottom, indigo and violet at the top.  Below was the Baltic, where seventy years ago Bombers would have been approaching to lay their mines - 'gardening'.  Tonight, just peaceful.  

Peenemunde was just off to our left, the site of such an important raid, one which slowed the V-1s and V-2s by crucial months - at the cost of many bomber crews. Then we crossed the neck of Denmark - no flak tonight, but so lethal all those years ago.   I chatted to Eddie about that; he replied "We've still got the North Sea to go yet".   To him, crossing the North sea still had significance - the other side was home, and another day or two of life at least but dangerous still until saftley landed.

And so down into Heathrow.